How to Center Park Tool Wheel Truing Stands
This article will discuss the calibration procedures for the TS-2, TS-2.2, TS-2.2P, TS-2.3, and TS-4.2 Professional Wheel Truing Stands. The same procedures and concepts apply to all stands.
- Perfectly dished and true wheel or 1554-1 Centering Gauge
- Hex wrench for collars — 4 mm on newer stands & ⅛" on older stands
- Measuring caliper such as the DC-1
- Wrench for caliper arm nut such as a 19 mm cone wrench
Park Tool Professional Wheel Truing Stands are adjusted at the factory to center the rim between the calipers. With repetitive use or rough handling during shipping, the stands can come out of center. However it’s important to understand that wheels can have issues that impact whether the rim appears centered between the caliper fingers. For precision dishing work, the TS-2, TS-2.2, TS-2.3 and TS-4.2 are intended to be used with a dishing tool, such as the Park Tool WAG-4 or WAG-5. See these tools discussed in the article: Wheel Dishing (Centering).
NOTE: Older TS-2 stands can benefit from the TS-RK rebuild kit. Inspect the shaft collars. Older stands will use zinc colored collars with a set screw.
- Loosen bolt or set screw on both collars located on shaft between base uprights. Push arms side to side to double check shaft movement in collars. Some older TS-2 stands have collars with set screws that drive directly into main shaft. Upon loosening set screw it may be necessary to use pliers to free collar from burr on main shaft.
- Install dished and true wheel into uprights and tighten upright adjusting knob until arms are gently snug on axle locknuts.
Do not assume a “factory fresh wheel” has been properly dished, double check it.
- Tap upright arms left or right until rim appears centered between base uprights
- Using a caliper, measure distance from right side base upright to right side of rim. Repeat measuring process on left side. Adjust uprights left or right until both sides are equal to within 1 mm.
- After rim is centered between base uprights, tighten collars. Newer stands will have cap screws that pinch main shaft. Torque these to 8-9 Nm. If you are working with an older TS-2 stand, there will be set screws on the collars. Secure these to 4 Nm.
The uprights are now centered, and the next process is to center the caliper arm.
Centering Caliper Arm
Before starting this next procedure, check the calipers for free movement. Pull outward and then release. Use nut to make adjustments if they do not move freely.
- Install perfectly dished and true wheel into uprights, remembering not to over-tighten.
- Adjust caliper fingers to rim. If there is a gap between one of the caliper fingers and the rim (shown below), the caliper arm needs centering.
The entire caliper arm can be moved left or right using the two nuts at the base of the caliper arm.
- To move arm right, loosen left nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn and tighten right nut the same amount. Repeat as necessary. Reverse process to move caliper toward left. Take care to turn locknuts equally, so as to not over-tighten or loosen caliper arm. Proceed until caliper fingers are centered to rim.
Your truing stand is ready for use. Again, for the most accurate wheel dish, a dishing tool such as the WAG-4 or WAG-5 should be used in conjunction with a truing stand.