TS-RK Rebuild Kit Installation

This article will discuss the installation of the TS-RK rebuild kit into TS-2, TS-2.2, and TS-2.3 Truing Stands.



TS-2 & TS-2.2 Rebuild Kit Installation
  1. Loosen set screws or cap screws located on both main shaft adjusting collars #209-2. Collars should rotate freely on main shaft #211S. Uprights #201-2 should now move at top when pushed left or right. On older stands it may be necessary to remove collar set screw completely and lubricate hole to free collars from main shaft.
  1. Remove right side upright pivot bolt #225-2 and pull upright toward the right.
  2. Turn knob #213S clockwise to disengage main shaft from left side threaded pivot-bushing #204LS.
  1. Pull knob #213S to right and remove main shaft and right side upright from stand. Remove old collars and spring.
  2. Remove both knob #213S and knob locknut #212S from main shaft.
  3. Remove left side upright pivot bolt and remove left side upright from base.
  4. Remove old bushings #232-2 from both uprights and install four new bushings into uprights.
  1. Grease both threaded pivot bushings on left and right side uprights. Use care not to mix up bushing or arms. Left side bushing has left hand threads and has yellow plating. Right side bushing has right hand threads. Grease pivoting surface and outer faces of bushings.
  2. Reinstall left side upright and pivot bolt back into base. Tighten bolt fully.
  3. Grease threads of new main shaft #211S. Install main shaft through hole in right side upright and into bushing. NOTE: Main shaft has both left and right hand threads. Right hand threads go to right side upright and left hand threads go to left side upright. Right side of main shaft has more threads than left side.
  4. Install threaded shaft into right side arm and bushing. Thread knob locknut onto right side of main shaft until 8 threads are exposed (distance of 16mm.) Install knob #213S and tighten against locknut.
  1. Guide main shaft through right side of base.
  2. The following parts will be installed on main shaft between short base uprights: bearing washer #749-1, needle bearing #748-1, bearing washer #749-1, main shaft adjusting collar #209-2, spring #229, main shaft adjusting collar #209-2, bearing washer #749-1, needle bearing #748-1, bearing washer #749-1. NOTE: It is necessary to compress the spring to install the left hand set of collar, washers, and bearing.
  1. Install right side upright into base. DO NOT attach right side pivot bolt at this time.
  2. Sight from left side of base to align threads of pivot bushing to threads of main shaft. Grab main shaft to raise or lower as necessary. Rotate threaded bushing as necessary to best align main shaft and bushing threads.
  3. Push left bushing against end of main shaft. Maintain pressure against main shaft and rotate knob counter-clockwise. If more than one rotation of knob is required to engage main shaft into bushings, unthread main shaft and start threading again.
  4. Continue to thread knob counter-clockwise until main shaft just begins to protrude out left side pivot bushing.
  5. Install right side upright and pivot bolt into base. Tighten bolt fully.
  6. Grab both uprights and move them side-to-side until they appear approximately symmetrical.

Installation of Nylon Bushings onto Caliper Arm

  1. Loosen caliper adjusting knob #217S until caliper arm #207-2 is nearly vertical in order to relax tension in spring #206S.
  2. Unhook spring #206-2 from caliper arm.
  1. Remove right side caliper locknut #233-2, washer #234-2, and old bushing #235-2.
  1. Install new bushing #235-2.
  1. Reinstall washer and nut on right side and tighten.
  2. Remove left side caliper locknut and washer. Remove old bushing and install new bushing without flange protrusion, #235-2.
  3. Reinstall washer and nut on left side and tighten.
  4. Check adjustment of caliper arm. Locknuts should be as snug as possible but still allow the caliper arm to freely move up and down.
  5. Raise caliper arm again to vertical position and reinstall spring.
  6. Lower caliper to working height of rim and tighten caliper adjusting knob #217S.

Installing Caliper Springs

NOTE: Test caliper springs by moving caliper outward and releasing. If spring is not fatigued, save replacement springs #222-SR and #222-SL for future use. Note that right side spring #222-SR coils counter-clockwise, and left side spring #222-SL coils clockwise.

  1. Use tape or other mark on right side caliper to distinguish it from left side.
  2. Loosen caliper adjusting knob #224S until shaft is nearly removed from caliper arm.
  3. Remove left side caliper locknut #226-2, caliper spacer #228-2 and spring #222-SL.
  4. Remove right side caliper locknut #226-2, caliper spacer #228-2 and spring #222-SR.
  5. Install spacer #228-2 and spring #222-SR onto right side of caliper bracket. Engage spring into hole in caliper bracket.
  6. Install right side caliper onto caliper bolt by tilting spring top downward and manipulating spring end into caliper. Next manipulate caliper and spring over spacer and onto the stud. Install and tighten locknut. Use care not to pinch spring coils between spacer and caliper.
  7. Install left side spring, spacer and caliper using similar technique.
  1. Check adjustment of caliper locknuts. Snug locknuts but do not over tighten. Pull back slightly on each caliper and release. If arm does not freely return, locknut is overly tight.
  2. Tighten caliper adjusting knob #224S until caliper opens up to working position.
  3. Double check centering of truing stand and adjust as necessary using centering adjustments.

While the TS-2, TS-2.2, and TS-2.3 are designed to provide automatic dishing of the wheel, imperfections in the shape or condition of the axle or locknuts can affect the dish reading, as the imperfection is magnified significantly by the distance from the hub to the rim, where the actual reading is taken. Because of this, for precision work, a dishing tool such as the Park Tool WAG-4 or WAG-5 should be used to verify final adjustments.