TS-2.2 and TS-2 Centering
The TS-2.2 truing stand is adjusted at the factory to center the rim between the calipers. With use, the TS-2.2 can come out of center. For precision work, the TS-2.2 and TS-2 are intended to be used with a dishing tool, such as the Park Tool WAG-4 or WAG-5. See these tools discussed in the article: Wheel Dishing or Centering
It is common for wheels and hubs to have anomalies that affect centering. The axle and bearing may not be exactly concentric. To check and adjust the TS-2.2 or TS-2, you will need a properly centered wheel, either front or rear, or the Park Tool 1554-1 centering gauge. Double check the wheel using a dishing tool. Do not assume a new wheel is properly dished.
There are three versions of the older TS-2 in use. Older model TS-2’s have no spring between the shaft collars on the main shaft. Some models have a spring between shaft collars to insure collars are pushed outward. Older models using the setscrew type collar used zinc colored collars. Current model TS-2’s use a black split ring type shaft collars, a spring, and thrust bearings on the main shaft.
Begin by checking for excessive play in the uprights. Grab either upright and move it left to right. A small amount of play is normal. If there is play, look at the shaft collars. If you can see the collars move left to right significantly, there is excessive play. Remove play and re-center the uprights, as described below. Also check for free movement of the caliper’s themselves. Pull outward on each caliper. Adjust as necessary by using the nut behind each caliper.
If the TS-2.2 or TS-2 is slightly out of alignment (3mm or less), adjust using caliper arm locknuts. The caliper arm is attached to the base with two nuts, one on the left side and one on the right. The calipers at the rim can be moved either left or right using these nuts at base of arm. Assume a dished wheel shows a gap at the caliper on the right side. The calipers can move to the left. First, loosen the right nut 1/4 to ½ turn and tighten left locknut same amount. Reverse process to move caliper toward the right. Repeat as necessary.
If the TS-2.2 or TS-2 is off significantly, it may be necessary to adjust the upright arms that grab the hub.
- Loosen bolt or setscrew on both collars located between base uprights. Hold collar and spin adjusting knob is check that collars are loose from main shaft. Push arms side to side to double check shaft movement in collars. Older models have set screw collars. The set screw drives directly into the main shaft. Upon loosening set screw it may be necessary to use pliers to free collar from burr on main shaft. Newer models have “split ring” collars and pinch the main shaft.
NOTE: Some shaft collars use a 3.5mm hex key (9/64”).
- Install dished wheel into moving uprights and secure upright adjusting knob until arms are gently snug on axle locknuts.
- Grab upright arms and pull arms left and right until rim appears centered between base uprights. Measure using caliper from rim to each base upright to check centering.
- For Setscrew-Type-Collars: place feeler gauge of 0.003” (or a piece of paper) between collar and base upright. Secure collar set screws. Remove gauge or paper.
- For split ring collars simply secure set screws using no shim. Thrust bearing take place of shim.
- For older stands with no spring between collars, place a shim against base upright and push each collar against its appropriate upright. Secure set screw.
- Raise caliper arm to rim level and open calipers.
- Slowly close calipers close to rim and note centering.
- To move calipers, use caliper arm pivot nuts at base of caliper arm. To move calipers left, loosen right nut 1/4 to ½ turn and tighten left locknut same amount. Reverse process to move caliper right. Repeat as necessary until caliper center on rim.
- TS-2.2 or TS-2 is ready for use. Again, for the most accurate work, a truing stand should be used in conjunction with a dishing tool.