SRAM Force and Rival Group Service and Installation
As manufacturers release new groups and components, there are often new features that require new service procedures. This will be the first in a series of articles discussing the newer component groups available from various manufacturers. For the Campagnolo© group see Ultra-Torque and Record Group.
The article below will discuss the service and installation features of the following SRAM© Force and Rival components.
The crankset system is an external bearing system. The bottom bracket bearing are mounted inside threaded cups. Use a grease or anti seize to prepare threads in the bottom bracket shell (Figure 1).
SRAM© recommended torque is 301-363 inch pounds for each side. With a hand wrench such as the BBT-9 held approximately six inches from the center of the bearing, apply an effort of at least 50 pounds force (Figure 2).
The right crank installs through right side cup (Figure 3). Axle will stick out the left side when full installed.
Install left arm and secure. SRAM© recommend toque is 425-478 inch pounds (Figure 4). When mounting pedals in the carbon arms, use the pedals washers included with the cranks.
The left crank is removed by simply turning the 8mm hex fitting counter-clockwise. The arm includes a "one-key" release system. There is no need to remove the system. The release system is secured with a 16mm hex wrench. The fitting may come loose. If a 16mm hex wrench is not available, substitute the head of a bolt that uses a 16mm head. Another option is a 5/8" head, common on 1/2" SAE threaded bolts. Use the SCW-16 and secure the one-key system into the crank (Figure 5).
The lever mounting bolt is accessed by pulling the rubber cover (Figure 6). Use a 5mm hex wrench such as the AWS-1 to secure lever.
Shift wires install from the inside face of the lever body. Pull cover back on lower portion of lever to expose wire access hole (Figure 7). The shift wire must make a relatively quick 90-degree turn from horizontal to vertical (Figure 8). It can be useful to give the cable a slight curve. It is best to use new shift wires or wires that have been soldered. Freshly cut wires may have difficulty making the bend. Secure the housing to the bar with tape.
Brake wires feed through the top of the brake lever. Pull back on the lever and look for the cable anchor pivot (Figure 9). The wire and housing will exist on the inner face of the lever.
Install housing and again secure with tape before wrapping bars (Figure 10).
The rear derailleur mounts to the frame using a 5mm hex wrench. SRAM© recommend torque is 70-85 inch pounds. The shift wire routes through a guide and under the pinch bolt. As in any derailleur, inspect for a grove that will hold the wire (Figure 11). SRAM© recommended torque for the wire pinch bolt is 35-45 inch pounds.
After attaching cables, shift derailleur to the inner most cog. Push derailleur forward and use the "B-screw" to set a 6mm gap between the upper pulley and largest cog Figure 12).
Service Note: The rear derailleur cage may be removed to replace pulley wheels (Figure 13). However, the lower cage does not come off of the derailleur body. Internal parts of the lower pivot are not serviceable.
The front derailleur mounts and adjusts similar to other derailleur. Route the shift wire under the grove at the pinch bolt (Figure 14). SRAM© recommend torque is 44 inch pounds for the pinch bolt.
The limit screws use a #2 Phillips screwdriver, such as the SD-2. The upper screw controls the inner limit of the cage, while the lower screw controls the out limit of the cage (Figure 15).
The SRAM© 10-speed chain length is set similar to other systems. Wrap the chain around largest sprockets front and rear and pull chain snug. Add two rivet or one-inch to this length. The chain uses a master-link system. The SRAM© Force and Rival master link is a "one-time" use link. Do not attempt to remove the master link once it has been installed. A new master link must be fitted for the chain to be removed and reused. Normal service is to clean chain in place on the bike and replace a new chain and master link.
Engage master link and pedal bike until link is between rear derailleur and front derailleur (Figure 16).
Grab rear wheel and force cranks forward to fully engage link. Inspect both sides of master link for correct and full engagement (Figure 17).
The cassette cogs will install similar to other makes. The freehub body will have a wide space that accepts the wide spline inside the cogs (Figure 18).
The first few cogs of the system have a tooth missing as part of the design. The chain is able to shift using these gaps (Figure 19).
The brake calipers use a dual pivot design. Each arm has a separate pivot and pivot bolt system. Adjust the pads like any other dual pivot. There is no centering screw on the caliper bridge for centering pads to the rim. There is a nut with wrench flats behind the caliper arms. Use a wrench to move the pads when centering the rim (Figure 20).
Like any dual pivot, play may develop in the caliper arms. Caliper must be removed from bike to adjust pivots. Hold brake mounting bolt in soft jaws such as the AV-4. Use a 2.5mm hex wrench to loose the set screw under the caliper arms (Figure 21). Set screw prevents bolt from turning and must be loosed before any pivot adjustment can be made.
The outer arm uses a 7M bolt adjusted from the back of the brake. The bolt uses a star-shaped drive such as the TWS-2 (Figure 22). Secure set screw after adjustments are made. Center arm is adjusted with the mounting bolt and the adjusting nut at the back of the arm.